Big W's Roadside Bar-B-Q

1475 Route 22, Wingdale, NY - (845) 832-6200

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Posted By Stewart Wurtzel on 7/21/2007 12:57:00 PM

The move from roadside to roadstop appears to have been very successful for Warren Norstein. The signature truck sits around the side but the large smokehouse and small but comfortable restaurant turns out first class barbecue and high quality sides. The restaurant, located in a little roadside shopping center, is clean and well laid out with a little area to pack up your leftovers (which you will undoubtedly have, as the portions are immense).

We tried the pulled chicken, pulled pork and the rack of ribs. The chicken, while technically a sandwich, is more appropriately called a monsterwich; it is a huge pile of well-smoked moist meat, piled ridiculously high on a bun. It was the unanimous favorite of the three of us who ate there. The pulled pork sandwich is equally daunting. Interestingly, the meat is not the typically shredded pieces of pork. Mr. Norstein explains that by keeping the pulled pork as large chunks of meat, the meat does not dry out or need to rely on sauce to keep its moisture.

The ribs have an intense smoked flavor from the combination of three local woods used by Pitmaster Warren. My own personal preference however, is for a rib with a little more pull; those who like a softer rib which tends to shred when you bite it will find the product here perfect. Their BBQ sauce has a great flavor: not overly sweet and it really helps to highlight the flavor of the meats.

The sides are good. My favorites are the baked beans, with loads of BBQ pork throughout, and the oven-baked cabbage, not a typical BBQ side dish but one which works very well. The macaroni and cheese is ok; it could be a little creamier and a lot more peppery (I admit I was spoiled by the mac 'n' cheese at Dinosaur BBQ which was the best I've had).

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"A half-pound of brisket tumbles from its bun. All those falling-off shreds are especially delicious."
Michael Stern

"Warren Norstein knows his way around a brisket. It is a joy to watch him slice it and pile the meat high on a bun."
Michael Stern

"This is a "sandwich" of pulled pork and, yes, there's some white bread underneath that mountain of pork. We love the variety of tastes and textures - soft, creamy textured inner chunks, and crusty, smoky surface chunks."
Bruce Bilmes and Susan Boyle

"These were easily the finest ribs we've had outside of the barbecue belt."
Bruce Bilmes and Susan Boyle

"Corn pudding is a stout side dish that requires serious excavation."
Michael Stern

"Cracklin's, too rich to eat all by themselves, are an inspired garnish for mashed potatoes."
Michael Stern

"Clockwise from the top: beans, slaw, sauce, and rice."
Bruce Bilmes and Susan Boyle

"The medium-size pulled pork sandwich is really very large, and so overstuffed that it is virtually impossible to lift like a regular sandwich. The pork benefits immensely from Big W's excellent spicy sauce."
Michael Stern

"Formerly a roadside smoker, Big W's now is brick-and-mortar with indoor tables and booths."
Michael Stern

"A peek at the ribs during their eight hour smoking operation. The pork shoulder, for the pulled pork, smokes overnight. The chickens smoke for 5-6 hours."
Stewart Wurtzel