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Wave Hill Breads

30 High St., Norwalk, CT - (203) 762-9595
Posted By Michael Stern on 7/13/2013 5:42:00 AM
I became an acolyte of Mitchell Rapoport and Margaret Sapir when they started baking their three-grain pain de campagne at a little shop off Route 7 in Wilton. What a magnificent loaf it is: muscular crust, dense crumb, and flavor that is fine with nothing added and even finer dipped in olive oil or spread with good butter.

According to the bag in which it's packed, the loaf is made from flour, water, spelt and rye berries, sea salt, and yeast. The spelt and rye berries are organic, of course; and loaves are baked each morning (except Tuesday). They are available at the bakery as well as several local grocery stores and the every-Thursday Farmer's Market in Westport.

Since debuting with that one great loaf, the Wave Hill repertoire has expanded to croutons -- huge, gnarled, crusty things that make any soup or salad deluxe, available plain, hot-peppered, garlicky, or lemon and thyme -- and an item called "just crust," which is a buff chip for crust lovers. The bread selection now includes a deliriously chewy olive and roasted red pepper ciabatta and a multi-grain loaf. A panoply of pastries also is on the menu: croissants, muffins, macaroons, gibassiers, and sticky buns.

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Scorecard

5 - Overall: Legendary - Worth driving from anyplace
Overall: Legendary - Worth driving from anyplace
Pain de Campagne (bread)
Bialy
Just Crust
Sticky Bun
Triple Nut Glazed Brownie
Macaroon
Croissant
Tuna Sandwich
Muffins
Tomato Parmesan Soup
Pastry Snail
Smoked Salmon on a Bialy
Ciabatta
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Reviewers Photos [Upload Your Photos]

If you are a lover of country bread with soul, this image of a just-cut Wave Hill loaf is a large slice of heaven.
"If you are a lover of country bread with soul, this image of a just-cut Wave Hill loaf is a large slice of heaven."
Michael Stern





An extremely sticky and extremely delicious sticky bun is now part of the expanded repertoire at Wave Hill.
"An extremely sticky and extremely delicious sticky bun is now part of the expanded repertoire at Wave Hill."
Michael Stern


At once light and chewy, Wave Hill's bialy is crowded with caramelized onions.
"At once light and chewy, Wave Hill's bialy is crowded with caramelized onions."
Michael Stern


There are dense, sticky macaroons and there are frothy, featherweight ones. Wave Hill's are definitively in the latter category -- ethereal and elegant.
"There are dense, sticky macaroons and there are frothy, featherweight ones. Wave Hill's are definitively in the latter category -- ethereal and elegant."
Michael Stern


As its name says, Just Crust is just crust. But for some of us, that's like saying, 'just orgasmic.' If you like the crunch of good crust, this is the last word.
"As its name says, Just Crust is just crust. But for some of us, that's like saying, 'just orgasmic.' If you like the crunch of good crust, this is the last word."
Michael Stern


Wave Hill loaves are made using a natural fermentation process that lasts over eight hours. Although elegant, they pack full flavor that rewards a serious chaw.
"Wave Hill loaves are made using a natural fermentation process that lasts over eight hours. Although elegant, they pack full flavor that rewards a serious chaw."
Michael Stern


The crust on this loaf is firm and chewy, not at all brittle. Probably the best thing to do with it -- if you need to do something other than tear at it straight from the bag -- is dip it into some really good olive oil ... or maybe make it into bruschetta ... or spread it with tapenade.
"The crust on this loaf is firm and chewy, not at all brittle. Probably the best thing to do with it -- if you need to do something other than tear at it straight from the bag -- is dip it into some really good olive oil ... or maybe make it into bruschetta ... or spread it with tapenade."
Michael Stern


In the beginning: Bakers Mitchell Rapoport and Margaret Sapir stand at a table with the huge bomb of dough they were working on when I visited about 9:30 in the morning shortly after their bakery opened for business. Three hours later, the loaf I ate was still oven-warm. They have since moved to larger quarters in Norwalk.
"In the beginning: Bakers Mitchell Rapoport and Margaret Sapir stand at a table with the huge bomb of dough they were working on when I visited about 9:30 in the morning shortly after their bakery opened for business. Three hours later, the loaf I ate was still oven-warm. They have since moved to larger quarters in Norwalk."
Michael Stern


Ciabatta, studded with olives
"Ciabatta, studded with olives"
Michael Stern


The 'French Energy Muffin' was so named because it is what Tour de France bikers eat before the race. It is rich with coconut, apple, brown sugar, flax seeds and carrots.
"The 'French Energy Muffin' was so named because it is what Tour de France bikers eat before the race. It is rich with coconut, apple, brown sugar, flax seeds and carrots."
Michael Stern



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