Here is one of America's great hamburger-eating experiences. It is a half a pound of beef, charred and well-seasoned, lean yet drippingly juicy, sandwiched between thick halves of a big warm bun that oozes a surfeit of condiments, onions, tomato slices, and shreds of lettuce. What an unholy mess it is, compounded by the fact that Kincaid's accommodations are – how shall we say it? – less than deluxe.