We love lobster tails! No, not the meaty end of the Homarus americanus (we actually prefer the knuckle and claw meat), but the first cousin to the sfogliatelle. Both are made with overlapping leaves of a very thin pastry that's almost identical to Greek phyllo, but whereas sfogliatelle are shaped like quahogs, with a ricotta-based filling baked into the center, lobster tails are more elongated, very much resembling a real lobster tail. The filling is piped in after baking and can vary from whipped cream to cannoli cream to pastry cream. Sfogliatelle are very Italian in their sophistication and understated sweetness, while lobster tails are joyously Americanized Italian in their profligate sweet creaminess. The small lobster tail above is from De Lillo Pasticceria in the Arthur Avenue section of The Bronx. Spectacular!